In the late 19th century, Antonio Fogazzaro, in the first chapter of his book Piccolo mondo antico (Little Old World), describes an elaborate lunch organized by Marquess Maironi, at which the all-important risotto was served, then “…trout… white truffles, francolins and wine from Ghemme”. By now, wines from Novara were renowned, thanks also to the work of the “Cattedra ambulante di viticoltura” (Itinerant Chair of Viticulture), based in Gattinara, whose job it was to promote the good practices of the vineyard and the cellar.
Before the grape-harvest
The beginning of the new century saw the publication of a small book by the oenologist Luigi Nicolini who exalted the “healthy qualities” of Ghemme wine, which «cheers the spirit, fires the imagination and encourages the appetite», together with Gattinara, which «is cheered by the excellent company of its brother beyond the Sesia», e con la nascita nel 1910 della prima Cantina sociale di Ghemme, seguita da una seconda, grandiosa e moderna nel 1929.
and the creation, in 1910, of the first Cantina Sociale (wine cooperative) in Ghemme, followed by a second, grander, more modern one in 1929.
In 1930, Nicolini’s words were echoed by the poet, Pinet Turlo in his “Song of the vineyard tenders” «Robust and generous wine / like the heart of our people», and Mario Soldati, who, in his book, L’albergo di Ghemme sang the praises of this «famous wine», calling it also «excellent, first class».
The grape-harvest
In the 1960s, Gattinara and then the Colli Novaresi (Boca, Fara, Ghemme, Sizzano) were granted the long-awaited label of Denominazione di Origine Controllata (D.O.C.), putting the seal of approval on the commitment and the work of local wine producers. Don Angelo Stoppa, in his book Il vino di Ghemme (1971 and 1976), exalted this «splendid nectar, worthy of honouring any table, from the simple frugal table of a family meal to the refined, elegant table of an official banquet», and expressed the hope that the hills would be reborn.
Closer to our own times, the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (D.O.C.G.) arrived in 1990 for the Gattinara and in 1997 for the Ghemme. Today only 73 of the most prestigious wine growing areas in Italy share this top status, a fitting reward for the continual rise of the quality of our wine, a wine with a story thousands of years old.
